How to make a stair stringer router jig
If you’re new to woodworking with a router and in need of a new staircase why not try to make your own.
How many router jigs available online or at your local tool store.
Brands of router jigs
For my staircase projects, I make my own jigs usually out of plywood.
How I built my router jig
So you will need some materials and these materials are
- A piece of sheet material approximately 18 x 18 x 3/8 inches all for the Europeans 450 x 450 x 15mm or larger
- 4 strips of hardwood approximately 450x15x10mm
- 450 x 100x 20 mm wood for fence
- Wood glue, any will do such as PVA but I prefer to use cascamite.
- Pins or brands
- Sanding sealer
Tools required to build a router jig
- A pencil
- A rule
- Framing Square
- Panel saw or table saw
- Jigsaw or bandsaw optional
- A hammer or Brad nailer
Design checklist for jig
- What router will you be using
- Are you going to use a roller guided router bit?
- Are you going to use a fluted straight router bit and guide insert for the router?
- How much clearance do you need for the router guide?
- I made my jig on the basis of a 45-degree staircase. A 45-degree staircase has an equal rise and going.
My stair jig design uses
- Makita 1850w router
- Guide insert for the half-inch router bit
- Two 2 inch g-clamps
How to make the stair router jig template?
If you are still considering making a stair router guide or jig. I have put together this tutorial and a step by step of me making my jig. I have also made a video which you can see me make my jig.
Step by step of marking out the position of the tread on the new jig
- Draw line on the bench at 45 degrees from edge
- Place plywood Square onto the 45-degree angle
- Using your framing Square place the square ninety degrees to the edge of your bench.
- The narrow face of the square where should be facing at 90 degrees and the longer leg of the square should be parallel with the edge of the bench. This represents to rise and the going of each tread.
- Approximately 2 inches 50 mm from the corner of the square to the edge of the plywood approximately.
- Using a pencil draw the right angle on the plywoods. This will represent the top of the tread and the face of the rise.
- Because this stair jig is designed for use with wedges the housing for the stair treads and risers need to be tapered. The taper is for the wedge to slide into once the tread and The rise are in position. The wedge will force the tread to the top edge of the housing? This will be a much neater finish what is the traditional way of building a staircase.
- The taper of the housing needs to be about 3/8 of an inch or 10 mm for the length of the rise and the length of the going.
- Mark two lines parallel with the face lines.
- Allow for the clearance of the guide insert (for the purpose of this tutorial we will allow 4mm but your router and guide may be different)
- For instance, if your tread is 1 inch or 25mm allow 29mm at the front of the tread but at the back, you will need to allow for the taper of the wedge.
- I allow 10mm taper so at the back of the tread I allow 39mm
- Repeat this process for the rise but compensate for the thickness of the risers.
- My risers are 15mm thick so at the top they are 19mm and the bottom is 29mm.
You should have something that resembles the profile for the stair housing including wedges.
My stair jig upgrade
I line the edge of my jig with hardwood strips for the router guide to slide against. I have found this to be a better solution than just having a raw ply edge.
How I cut my jig out of the plywood
I have upgraded the way I make my stair router jig. The reason is that I found that using the plywood on its own left a rough finish to my finished housings.
1. I use my table saw to cut out the jig and finish with the band saw.
2, You can use a panel saw if you do not have the machines.
3, I clean up any ragged edges using a chisel and block panel
Assembling the new stair jig
1, Now you have all the components cut to the line you need to assemble the jig ready for glue-up.
2, Add two hardwood strips and trim ends
3, Add two additional strips to the outside edge for reinforcement
4, Apply wood glue to the mating surfaces, I prefer to use Cascamite
5, Clamp the assembly together and brad nail the components
6, Leave to set solid
7, Remove all the clamps and sand flush